📗Key Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Ingredients in the Treatment of Dry Skin

Dry skin (cutaneous xerosis) is a dermatological condition characterized by reduced hydration of the stratum corneum, impaired lipid skin barrier, and often a predisposition to inflammatory processes and sensitizations. Effective treatment involves the rational combination of cosmetic and pharmaceutical actives with humectant, emollient, occlusive, barrier-repairing, and soothing actions.

Below is a technical categorization of the main ingredients used in the clinical and aesthetic management of dry skin:

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1. Humectants

Hygroscopic substances that attract water from the environment or deeper layers of the skin, increasing the water content of the epidermis.

• Glycerin

• Hyaluronic Acid

• Urea – also has keratolytic effect at concentrations above 10%

• Sodium PCA

• Lactic Acid – acts as both a humectant and pH regulator

• Ammonium Lactate – moisturizing and mildly exfoliating action

• Panthenol (Provitamin B5) – pro-vitamin with regenerative properties

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2. Emollients

Substances that soften the skin by filling spaces between corneocytes with lipids, improving texture and flexibility.

• Shea Butter

• Jojoba Oil

• Squalane

• Lanolin

• Avocado Oil

• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

• Vitamin E (Tocopherol) – also functions as a lipophilic antioxidant and emollient

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3. Occlusives

Create a physical barrier on the skin surface, significantly reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

• Petrolatum – high occlusive efficacy

• Dimethicone – a silicone with excellent spreadability and sensory profile

• Beeswax

• Mineral Oil

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4. Skin Barrier Repair Agents

These actives restore the natural lipid components of the epidermis, which are essential for maintaining skin barrier integrity.

• Ceramides (NP, AP, EOP) – fundamental structural lipids of the intercellular matrix

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) – modulates ceramide and free fatty acid synthesis

• Essential Fatty Acids – such as linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids

• Cholesterol – works synergistically with ceramides and fatty acids in barrier repair

• Phosphatidylcholine – a natural phospholipid of the cell membrane, contributes to lipid bilayer reorganization and enhances active penetration; supports structural stability and functional integrity of the skin barrier

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5. Soothing and Anti-inflammatory Agents

Essential in formulations for dry, sensitive, irritated skin or skin affected by conditions such as atopic dermatitis or rosacea.

• Chamomile Extract (Chamomilla Recutita)

• Colloidal Oatmeal

• Allantoin

• Centella Asiatica

• Madecassoside – triterpenoid derived from Centella

• Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice)

• Resveratrol – polyphenol with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action

• Licorice (Glycyrrhiza Glabra Extract) – tyrosinase inhibitor with soothing and anti-irritant effects

• Sodium Sulfacetamide – comedolytic and anti-inflammatory, especially useful for rosacea

• Sulfur Derivatives – sebum-regulating with secondary anti-inflammatory action

• Azelaic Acid – broad-spectrum anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial, ideal for rosacea- and acne-prone skin

• Bromelain – proteolytic enzyme with soothing properties

• Alpha-Bisabolol – calming and anti-irritant monoterpenoid derived from chamomile

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Conclusion

The treatment of dry skin requires a multifactorial and personalized approach, taking into account the severity of xerosis, aggravating factors (such as climate, use of retinoids, detergents), and individual tolerance to formulation components. Proper and synergistic ingredient selection helps restore barrier function, improve skin hydration, and reduce inflammatory symptoms, delivering effective and lasting results.